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Cape Verdean Pastel de Atum: Easy Cooking Recipe and Video
Golden Delight: Cape Verdean Pastel
A golden Cape Verdean pastel de atum, with flaky fried crust revealing its savoury tuna filling. The smell of onions and garlic frying in olive oil drifts through the kitchen on a late afternoon. Family and friends gather in the next room. They’re waiting for a platter of Cape Verdean pastel de atum. The crisp, half-moon tuna pastries are coming fresh out of the oil. These Cape Verdean pastéis (plural form of pastel) are more than a snack. Ubiquitous at parties, street stalls, and family gatherings, pastéis are the islands’ beloved finger food, akin to the empanadas of Latin America.
Bite through the golden exterior, and you’ll find well-seasoned tuna flaked with herbs and spices. It’s a perfect balance of tender filling and crunchy dough. One taste and you’ll understand why these treats have earned their playful nickname “pastéis com diabo dentro,” meaning “pastels with the devil inside,” for their devilishly irresistible taste.
Cape Verdean pastel de atum nicely combines Portuguese culinary heritage with West African ingredients and ingenuity. The Portuguese introduced wheat flour and preserved fish to the islands centuries ago. At the same time, local cooks incorporated tropical produce, such as corn and peppers, into their cooking. The result is a popular fusion cuisine. Nearly every Cape Verdean knows this crispy tuna turnover: it’s the snack offered to guests as a sign of hospitality and a must-have at celebrations.
While traditionally filled with tuna, pastéis share a family resemblance with stuffed pastries around the world, from Caribbean meat patties to Indian samosas. It’s not difficult to find very similar fish turnovers in Senegal and Mauritania, which shows how seafaring and trade spread this delicious idea across West Africa.
However, Cape Verde’s version has its own identity – typically simpler in terms of spicing, relying on high-quality tuna and a few key seasonings to shine. Dive into the broader world of Cape Verdean pastéis and their regional variations (from meat to vegetarian), and modern adaptations that make it easier to enjoy these pastries in kitchens around the globe.
Tie on your apron, roll up your sleeves, and let’s make some tuna pastéis!
Recipe: Traditional Cape Verdean Pastel de Atum (Tuna Empanadas)
This recipe stays true to the traditional Cape Verdean pastel de atum, a crispy tuna-filled pastry. In Cape Verde, cooks often prepare hundreds of pastéis for festivals and gatherings, sometimes using store-bought empanada wrappers for convenience. Here, we’ll detail how to make a flavorful tuna filling and a simple dough from scratch (with notes on using ready-made dough if available). The result: about 20 palm-sized pastéis – perfect for a family snack or party appetiser.
Cape Verdean Pastel de Atum: Ingredients
For the Dough:
If you have pre-made empanada dough discs, about 20 pieces, you can use those and skip to the filling.
- 3 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon baking powder (for a light, flaky texture)
- 1 whole egg (optional, adds richness; dough can be made eggless)
- 2 tablespoons olive oil (or vegetable oil)
- 1 cup of water, or more if needed (you may substitute half with warm milk for a softer dough)
For the Tuna Filling:
- 2 cans of good-quality tuna (5–6 oz / ~170 g each), preferably packed in olive oil. Cape Verdean or Portuguese canned tuna is ideal for its rich, salty flavour, but any tuna will work (drained).
- 1 small yellow onion, finely diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced (or one teaspoon garlic powder for a traditional shortcut)
- 1/2 teaspoon salt (to taste)
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon paprika (sweet or smoked, adds colour and depth)
- 1/2 teaspoon onion powder (optional, if you like a sweeter onion flavour)
- 1 packet Goya sazón with saffron (optional) or 1/2 teaspoon annatto powder (optional, for colour)
- 2 tablespoons olive oil (for sautéing)
- 2 tablespoons fresh parsley or cilantro, chopped (cilantro adds a more herbal note)
- Optional: 1/4 cup finely diced red bell pepper for sweetness, and/or one small hot chilli pepper (seeded and minced) for a spicy “devil inside” kick. Traditional recipes often skip bell peppers and chilli, but some regional versions include them for extra flavour.
For Frying:
- About 1 to 2 cups of vegetable oil (canola or sunflower) for frying (for about 1 inch depth in your pan).
- Optional for Baking: 1 egg, beaten (for egg wash if baking instead of frying).
Step 1: Prepare the Dough
(Skip this step if using pre-made dough discs.)
Mix the dry ingredients: In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and baking powder until well combined. Make a well in the centre.
Add wet ingredients: Crack in the egg (if using), add the two tablespoons of olive oil, and about half a cup of water. Stir or use your hands to begin bringing the dough together.
Knead and adjust: Gradually add the remaining water as needed and knead the mixture until a dough forms. The dough should be soft and elastic but not too sticky. If it’s dry, add a tablespoon of water at a time; if too sticky, sprinkle a bit more flour. Knead for about 5 minutes, until the dough is smooth and elastic.
(You can also use a stand mixer with a dough hook on medium speed, adding water gradually until the dough is soft and light.)
Rest the dough: Shape the dough into a ball, cover it with a damp cloth or plastic wrap, and let it rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes (up to 1 hour). Resting relaxes the gluten, making it easier to roll out. (If you’re prepping ahead, you can refrigerate the dough overnight – just let it come to room temp before rolling.)
Step 2: Make the Tuna Filling
Sauté aromatics: In a skillet, heat the two tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the diced onion and sauté for 2-3 minutes, until translucent and fragrant. Add the minced garlic and cook for an additional 30 seconds (if using garlic powder, add it with the spices in the next step).
Add tuna and seasonings: Drain the canned tuna well and add it to the skillet. Use a wooden spoon to break up the tuna into flakes as it cooks with the onions. Sprinkle in the salt, black pepper, paprika, and onion powder (if using), along with optional seasonings like sazón or annatto. If you like some heat, add a pinch of chilli or a few drops of your favourite hot sauce now. Stir everything together to distribute the spices evenly.
Cook off moisture: Let the tuna mixture cook for about 5-10 minutes over medium heat, stirring frequently. The goal is to evaporate excess moisture so the filling isn’t soggy; the tuna should remain moist but not wet. You’ll notice the mixture drying out slightly – when it starts to lightly brown and no excess liquid remains, it’s done.
Finish with herbs: Turn off the heat. Stir in the chopped parsley or cilantro. The fresh herbs brighten the filling. Taste and adjust seasoning – it should be well-seasoned and savoury. Set the filling aside to cool.
(Filling can be made a day ahead and refrigerated; in fact, some cooks marinate the tuna with garlic, chilli, salt, and a touch of vinegar for 30 minutes before cooking for extra “devil” flavour.)
Step 3: Assemble the Pastéis
Roll out the dough: On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to a thickness of about 1/8 inch (2–3 mm). (If it’s a large piece, you can divide the dough into 2-3 portions to make rolling easier.) Using a round cutter or the rim of a bowl, cut out circles about 4 to 5 inches (10-12 cm) in diameter. Gather scraps, re-roll and cut until you have ~20 circles. If using store-bought discs, simply lay them out after thawing. Keep the pastry circles covered with a cloth to prevent drying.
Fill the pastries: Place about two tablespoons of the cooled tuna filling in the centre of each circle. Don’t overstuff – you need a border to seal. If your discs are smaller (3-inch), use about one heaping tablespoon of filling.
Seal the pastéis: Moisten the edge of a dough circle lightly with water (dip your finger in water and run it along the edge – this helps the seal). Fold the circle in half to form a half-moon shape, encasing the filling. Press the edges together. Using the tines of a fork, crimp the edges of the pastel firmly. Then, flip it over and crimp the other side as well to ensure a good seal. A well-sealed pastel shouldn’t leak any filling while frying. Repeat for all pastéis.
(If you’re experienced, you might also try a repulgue or rope crimping technique as seen in empanadas, but the fork method is simplest.)
Optional – chill: If the dough has softened too much or you’re not ready to fry yet, you can lay the assembled pastéis on a baking sheet and refrigerate them for 15-20 minutes. This firms them up and can improve frying if needed. Otherwise, you can fry immediately.
Step 4: Fry the Pastéis
Heat the oil: In a deep skillet or heavy pot, pour in about 1 inch of vegetable oil (around 1 to 1.5 cups, depending on pan size). Heat the oil to approximately 325°F (163°C). If you don’t have a thermometer, you can test by dropping a tiny piece of dough in – it should sizzle and rise to the top. Maintain medium heat.
Fry in batches: Gently slide 4–5 pastéis into the hot oil at a time, without overcrowding (they should have room to float). Fry for roughly 1–2 minutes per side, flipping once, until each pastel turns golden brown. They cook quickly; adjust the heat if they brown too fast.
Tip: Fry one tester pastel first to check oil temperature and ensure it cooks through without burning.
Drain and cool: Using a slotted spoon or tongs, remove the fried pastéis and let them drain on a paper-towel-lined plate or (even better) a wire rack. They will be extremely hot inside, so let them cool for a few minutes before biting in. Continue frying the rest in batches.
Alternative – Baking or Air-Frying: If you prefer to avoid deep-frying, you can bake the pastéis on a parchment-lined tray in a preheated oven at 375°F (190°C) for approximately 18–20 minutes, until they are lightly golden. Brush them with a little bit of beaten egg or spray with oil before baking to help develop colour.
For an air fryer, brush or spray the pastéis with oil and air-fry at 350°F (175°C) for approximately 7 minutes per side (in batches, depending on your fryer’s capacity).
Note that baking/air-frying yields a less bubbly, crisp texture than traditional oil frying, but it’s still tasty – and a bit lighter.
Step 5: Serving the Cape Verdean Pastel
Cape Verdean pastel de atum is best enjoyed warm, when the crust is still crispy and the tuna filling is fragrant and aromatic. Traditionally, they’re eaten on their own – no dipping sauce necessary – so that the savoury tuna and slight spice can shine. You might serve them alongside a simple salad or with other Cape Verdean favourites like cachupa at a gathering. Some like to spice things up by splashing a few drops of hot sauce inside each pastel after taking a bite – a quick custom twist for heat lovers. Either way, these pastries are irresistible; don’t be surprised if the whole batch vanishes in minutes. Bom apetite!
Storage: Cape Verdean pastel is best enjoyed hot and fresh. However, you can actually store leftovers. Just remember to do it in an airtight container or zip-top bag for a day or two at room temperature. Reheat them in the 350°F oven for 5-10 minutes to revive the crunch. The tuna filling itself will keep in the fridge for 2-3 days, allowing you to make it ahead of time.
As for making in bulk, you can assemble the pastéis and freeze them uncooked. Fry them from frozen. Be cautious of oil splatters.
Modern Adaptations and Tips for Home-Cooked Cape Verdean Pastel
For those trying this recipe abroad, there are a few modern adaptations and tips that make pastel de atum easier to pull off in a typical home kitchen:
Using Store-Bought Wrappers
As mentioned, using pre-made empanada dough discs can be a lifesaver. Brands like Goya sell frozen discs that many Cape Verdean diaspora families keep on hand. They are perfectly sized and fry up beautifully. If you can find these (usually in Latin American grocery stores), feel free to use them and skip making dough – your pastéis will still be authentic, as even in Cape Verde, convenience is embraced for large batches. Just remember to thaw them and keep them covered to prevent them from drying out.
Choosing the Tuna
Cape Verdeans have a special place in their heart for canned tuna in olive oil, often imported from Europe (Portuguese brands are popular). This tuna tends to be of higher quality, with a richer taste and texture, and the olive oil infusion means it has more flavour. If you can source that, great – but it can be pricey overseas. Don’t fret: any good-quality canned tuna will do. Try to get one labelled “solid” or “chunk” in olive oil. If you only have tuna in water, you can mix a tablespoon of olive oil into your filling for richness. One Cape Verdean cook reassures that while imported tuna is nice, “my grandmother uses American tuna and she makes the best pastel!” – in other words, use what you have and don’t let the perfect be the enemy of the good.
Health and Dietary Tweaks
If you love pastéis but prefer not to use deep-frying, we’ve covered baking and air-frying options above. The texture will differ (you won’t get all the signature blisters and bubbles on the dough), but you’ll still have a satisfying hand pie. Another tweak: some home chefs brush the finished pastéis with a bit of vinegar or a squeeze of lemon while they cool, to cut the oiliness – a trick more common in other fritters but applicable here if you desire a touch of brightness. For a gluten-free version, one could experiment with gluten-free flour blends or even the sweet potato–cornmeal dough of pastel de milho, though results may vary.
Cape Verdean Pastel and Serving Sauces
Traditionally, Cape Verdean pastéis are eaten plain, often accompanied by a dash of hot sauce, as mentioned. However, nothing stops you from serving them with a simple garlic hot sauce or a Creole chutney. In some West African traditions, fish pastels come with a spicy tomato-onion sauce for dipping. You could recreate a light tomato relish (made with tomatoes, onion, vinegar, and hot pepper) to accompany the pastéis for a touch of cross-cultural flavour. Even a side of piri-piri sauce (the Portuguese-African chilli sauce) would complement the tuna nicely. These are clearly non-traditional serving suggestions, but can be fun for a party spread.
Scaling and Freezing
The recipe above yields about 20 pastéis, but it can easily be doubled or tripled if you’re feeding a crowd. As mentioned, you can assemble uncooked Cape Verdean pastel and freeze it for later use. Lay them in a single layer on a tray to freeze, then transfer them to bags. Fry them from frozen at the same temperature (do not thaw, or they may get soggy), adding an extra minute or two to the cook time. This is a massive time-saver for party prep: you complete the messy work ahead, and on the day of the event, you simply fry and serve hot pastries to your impressed guests.
Bibliography and Sources
- Pastel de Atum | Delicious Cabo Verdean Tuna Empanadas by Chain Baker on YouTube;
- Cape Verdean Pastel Recipe – Pastel de Atum by Crystal DaCruz on Crumb Snatched;
- Pastels by Vera Abitbol on 196flavors.com;
- Cape Verdean Food: 26 Authentic Recipes by Crystal DaCruz on Crumb Snatched;
- How to Make Perfect Pastel de Atum on ChainBaker.com;
- Oven pastel with tuna (photo) on Dellys Blog.
