Rising starkly from the flat desert plains of Sal Island, Monte Leão, also known as Rabo de Junco, asserts a quiet dominance over the surrounding coast. Towering approximately 165 m above sea level at the northern rim of Baía de Murdeira, this distinctive “Lion Mountain” functions both as a geological sentinel and as a cherished destination. At this point, geology, ecology, and human aspiration converge.

M2X9+F9H, Murdeira, Sal, Cape Verde

A Geological Beacon at Baía de Murdeira

Monte Leão is neither tall nor lush, but its steep, erosion-carved slopes stand out against the flat basalt landscapes typical of Sal. Composed of volcanic deposits from the island’s ancient eruptions, the hill offers visitors a striking counterpoint to the sea’s horizontal calm. From Murdeira Bay, the mountain’s outline resembles a lion’s back — a resemblance that gave it its informal name and makes it immediately recognisable to locals and hikers alike. Scientifically, Rabo de Junco has earned its place in Cape Verde’s network of protected areas, conserving a fragile ecosystem and the cliffside habitats used by nesting seabirds.

Ecological Significance of Monte Leão

The steep ridge of Monte Leão is not just scenic; it’s ecological. It hosts nesting colonies of tropicbirds, kestrels, and other seabird species that rely on the isolated cliffs free from predation. At the base, murky freshwater seeps at the foot of the slope, sustaining thorny shrubs and rare succulents. From the summit, the transition becomes evident: below, the protected waters of Baía de Murdeira harbour a coral reef, tidal pools, and occasional turtles gliding over sandy shoals; above lies parched, wind-scoured rock that supports insects and hardy flora.

This meeting — land and sea, aridity and marine life — is what gives Monte Leão its unique appeal. The area was officially protected in the 2014 marine reserve designation covering Murdeira Bay, underscoring the tight ecological link between the ridge and the reef.

Monte Leão , Sal, Cape Verde. Photo by Ladislav Luppa

A Rewarding Hike

Climbing Monte Leão is within reach for fit walkers: a 6–7 mile round trip with about 120 m of ascent, as mapped on hiking platforms. Trails are informal and rugged, winding over rocky ground. The hike offers panoramic angles over adjacent beaches — Ponta Preta, Calheta Funda — and the sea beyond. As it climbs, the path shifts from the patterned basalt of the shore to crumbly volcanic hillside. At the crest, you can sit on the wind-blasted knoll, watching waves cresting in Murdeira’s reef channels as dolphins sometimes surface offshore.

Early morning or late afternoon is optimal — for safety, lighting, and wildlife views. Bring good shoes, water, sun protection, and a map or guide; while the summit is unmarked, cairns often indicate the route. Take care in the heat, and tread gently through the habitat.

Cultural Connection and Conservation

Monte Leão serves not only as a trekking goal but also as a cultural backdrop. Locals recall Sunday gatherings at the summit, where families would grill fresh-caught fish before descending into the sea. The mountain echoes shared memory and the interaction of geological history and human tradition. Today, the site carries multiple meanings: a marker for navigators, a viewpoint for photographers, and a classroom for ecotourism.

Management of the Monte Leão–Baía de Murdeira area emphasises minimal impact: no facilities, no official trails, no crowds. Instead, visitors are invited to explore gently. Suggested practices include staying on hardened ground, avoiding cliff edges, leaving no trace, and observing wildlife from a distance. Local tour operators often include Monte Leão in guided hikes, pairing natural interpretation with context on settler history and salt extraction — themes that shaped this stretch of coast.

Monte Leão Visit Checklist

  • Access: 10 km south of Espargos via a paved or gravel road; aluguer, taxi, or rental car.

  • Timing: Sunrise or pre-sunset; avoid midday heat.

  • Equipment: Sturdy shoes, 1–2 L of water, sunhat, sunscreen, and basic first-aid supplies.

  • Route: Coastal start at Murdeira village to the ridge trail; round trip about 10 km.

  • Permits: None required, though presence in a marine reserve encourages ethical conduct.

  • Nearby: Snorkelling in Murdeira Bay, village cafés, and rock-pool exploration.

Why Monte Leão Matters

It’s not merely a scenic viewpoint — it’s a symbol. Monte Leão encapsulates Sal’s geological narrative, its island ecologies, and a modest but meaningful tourism form rooted in nature rather than construction. From its heights, visitors grasp the sweeping curves of Murdeira Bay and the linear simplicity of Sal’s topography. It encourages reflection on island vulnerability — to climate, development, and tourism — and presents a model for low-impact, respectful discovery.

In other words, Monte Leão is a place that reveals itself gradually — through ascent, through quiet observation, through the careful choice to walk rather than drive. It invites those who seek more than a snapshot: a place that rewards awareness, patience, and respect.

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